Friday, March 27, 2015

Who Are You?

When I was in Palestine, I got to see the hip hop group DAM play. These guys are among the most influential rappers in the Arab world, and while their lyrics feel a bit clunky at times to me, they are still pretty amazing.


Check out their latest song (their first released with their newest addition to the group, Maysa Daw), which tackles misogyny and feminism in a really unique way. (English translations available by clicking the CC button in the bottom right).

If you're interested in reading more, check out this article on the band and the song.

Training

One of the questions I got asked a lot as I was getting ready to go was "what kind of training will you have??" Today was a first aid training course-- the first half covering everything you'd get in a high school health class (CPR, etc.), and the second half being first aid in a conflict zone (how to apply pressure bandages, tourniquets, assess injuries when there is critical bleeding). The training was put on by the German consulate, and the trainer was a medic in the German military. 

The training was geared toward NGO workers, and taught with a bit of a military spin. It was definitely interesting, informative, practical, and something that the hope is, you never have to use, but better to have at least a cursory knowledge of. In fact, the reality is, it's something more people should have, considering the same skills are just as relevant in car crashes as they are in conflict zones. 

Friday, March 20, 2015

نحن تونس#

I've been watching the news of the killing at the Bardo Museum in Tunis, and been both really saddened to see something so tragic happen there, and really inspired to see the response (which I'd really encourage you to check out), both within and outside of Tunisia.

I just wanted to share something that a classmate from when I was in Tunis posted to his Facebook following the news. I think it sums up my feelings well, and I've been unable to find better words myself. I hope he doesn't mind...

"It is with a heavy heart and tears in my eyes that I read the news from Tunisia today. I, along with millions of Tunisians, mourn the deaths of those killed at the beloved Bardo museum. The Bardo is one of the best museums in the world, a treasure of human heritage second to none.

But, lest we become disheartened, discouraged, or disenchanted with the progress that Tunis has made let us remember that democracies are not forged without challenges. Let us honor the dead. But let us also remember the sacrifices of the living who are fighting day in and day out to protect this bastion of democracy in the Arab world. Let us turn our energy to supporting those who are living. Lets recommit ourselves to the mission ahead of us. Let us not fall victim to helplessness and despair or to polarized ideology. Tunis, its people and its government, should be recognized for its timely, organized, and forceful response to this tragedy. Tunis is building a united and inclusive society that encourages discourse and will not tolerate violence as a means of expression.
It is in the hours of greatest difficulty that we will be challenged and reveal who we are. It is in the hours of greatest darkness that we shine brightest.
‪#‎tunis‬ ‪#‎bardo‬ ‪#‎yahyatunis‬ ‪#‎jasminerevolution‬ ‪#‎arabspring‬"

(And for those wondering, the title of this post means "We are Tunisia.")

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

"If you're not in over your head, how can you know how tall you are?" - TS Elliot

I started work on Sunday (work weeks here run Sunday-Thursday because in Muslim countries, the holy day is Friday rather than Sunday), and headed to Sulaymaniyah Monday morning to spend a couple of days at our office here. Sulaymaniyah is totally different from Erbil. It is about the same size of a city, but has a much more cultural feel to it than Erbil does, which mostly feels full of shiny new buildings and hotels. In contrast, Sulaymaniyah is full of cute little cafes, restaurants and is historically the home to many famous poets, historians, writers and artists. It is surrounded by mountains almost on all sides, and has some pretty great views. 

Sulaymaniyah's mountain ranges
Work has been pretty crazy though. Jumping in and trying to grasp two years of programming and figure out next steps for the next 6-7 months is a challenge, but I'm moving along and starting to get a few of the many pieces to fall into place. I've been in pretty constant meetings so far this week, just trying to absorb as much information as I possibly can. I've been meeting with different program managers and trying to get a sense of where I fit into the scheme of the overall picture, and what communication needs are the greatest. 

One of the interesting projects that we have under this project that I'm working on supports victims of war. In Iraq, (pushed by an American aid worker who worked to document the civilian toll of war in Iraq) all civilian victims of war who have lost loved ones or been injured by US forces, militias or terrorism are eligible for compensation (which I find incredibly interesting and admirable, if unsustainable in the long run, given the current security situation). Our project finds those victims who are particularly in need and particularly creative, and helps them to start small businesses to support themselves and their families. Too many people meet the eligibility requirements of having their lives torn apart by violence, but having something with which to start over is the first step to putting life back together.

The meetings will continue for much of next week, with the exception of Sunday and Monday, which we get off for the Kurdish New Year holiday of Nowruz. While normally this would be a big time for Kurdish Iraqis to travel and visit family in other parts of the country, most people who I have talked to so far have said they plan to stay home because of the conflict. People don't want to leave border areas to the conflict to come and visit their family members in the Iraqi Kurdish Region, for fear of having their homes taken over and not being able to return, and people in Northern Iraq are unable to go to see their families in southern Iraq. There is also added tension given that the holiday isn't one really celebrated in southern Iraq, so it is a factor in an increasingly separate northern and southern divided country and a potential point of conflict. In fact, someone was just telling me today that flying from Baghdad to Erbil, they received an international exit stamp, despite not actually leaving Iraq, and in fact, you need a separate visa for the Northern region and the Southern/Central Region.

Early tomorrow morning, I'll be headed back to Erbil, where I'll continue meetings and start plodding into the world of report writing. More updates to come. 

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Of Citadels, Nelly, and Pi Day

Happy not-quite-International Pi Day (3/14/*15= 3.1415 for those less nerdy amongst us). In honor of Pi Day (well, actually for a friends birthday, but the timing still stands), my roommate made a pie today. As it was pointed out to me today by a Brit, it's not actually International at all-- the US is pretty specific in writing our dates as Month/Day/Year, while most, if not all, of the rest of the world writes it Day/Month/Year. Thus, to truly be International, it would have to be 31/4/15... which, alas, doesn't exist. So, we plow ahead with our American standards, and dub today a very special Pi Day.

*Pi Day, for the uninitiated, happens every 3/14. This year is particularly special because the year extends Pi out another two digits.

All the pies, along with various other candies to brighten the display

Apparently, this toffee, pudding, whipped cream and banana mess is called banoffee (banana toffee?) pie. 






























Earlier today we went to the Citadel, which was lovely, except that it was closed (possibly for renovations, possibly to be decorated for Nowruz, the Kurdish New Year). From the outside, you can still see the pretty spectacular architecture, with lots of people out milling about and enjoying the beautiful weather. The Citadel, like I said in an earlier post, is a UNESCO Heritage Site and is the oldest continually inhabited place on Earth. Now, the way that they maintain this is by having one family living there, in order to keep it "continually inhabited". I find this both incredibly strange and a little amusing. The things you do to keep a world record, I suppose...

Erbil Citadel

Erbil Citadel

And for those who missed the memo like me, Nelly played in Erbil yesterday! Unfortunately, I missed the whole surreal and dated rap concert thing, but apparently some of our staff may have gone. I'll have to keep my eyes open for more weird opportunities.

Last but not least, for those interested in the new digs, here's a picture of my room:

My room in Erbil

Jet lag is kicking in and we are going to dinner at our Country Director's house tonight, so I'm going to go take a quick nap before we head out. More updates soon! I actually officially start work tomorrow!


Contemplating "expat"

I have spent a lot of the last few weeks helping to define words used most commonly in nonprofit and international development--- what exactly is "grant reporting", "civil society building", "expat"? And it's that last one that I was reading about this morning.

An article in the Guardian highlighted the fact that a white Westerner living and working abroad is often referred to as an expatriate-- expat for short-- while most people living and working in a country other than their home one is simply referred to as an "immigrant". There are a few nuances to this-- questions on race, skill level, and work status are all wrapped up in who gets labeled as an expat.

Undoubtedly, race factors in-- no matter how well educated, a person coming from a poorer, non-Western country is far more likely to be labelled an immigrant than an expat. And even in the United States, only 5% of black college students participate in study abroad programs that set you up for success in an expat position. After all, it's hard to get a job overseas with no overseas experience. And while this may be slowly beginning to shift, it still seems that overwhelmingly, international experience is still associated largely with privilege, and people of color are often hesitant to study abroad with no frame of reference for what this experience might look like for them.

In some definitions, an expat is someone working in another country providing skilled labor. This is how the term is used where I work-- we have expats, or international staff, from the US, UK, Nigeria, Pakistan, and elsewhere, The term isn't exclusively used for white people or Westerners, though the NGO field is predominantly led by Westerners, something that is slowly (and finally) changing. There is finally a sense among NGOs that local talent is often better than bringing in expats, who are expensive, unfamiliar with the language and cultural nuances, and unable to stay as long. However, because skilled labor is often synonymous with higher education and fluency in English, national staff often hold Program Manager type roles, and rarely make it to the level of Program Director or Country Director. I do believe that this will change, as those Program Managers are trained up, and are able to train up people behind them, but as long as INGOs are based in the West, it is likely that so too will their highest level staff.

I wish I had some insight to offer on this-- I use the term expat, despite understanding the racial complications that the word faces. Maybe I should drop it from my vocabulary, and just call myself an immigrant in Iraq-- but as someone here for 7 months, that doesn't feel quite right. In my mind, an immigrant is someone more deeply connected to the community in which they work and live, in it for the long haul. I'm lending a skill and a few months. These hardly feel comparable, and so I don't feel like the two really should be used interchangeably.

There is also, in some ways, a degree to which I associate the word to frivolity (of the 1920's, perhaps, where expatriates flooded Europe to drink, party, and write or paint). There is a degree of separation that I see expats as having that I don't think immigrants have-- they typically live together, separate from the people whose home the country is, unlike immigrants. Expats have a reputation, I think, for parties and the sort of lack of responsibility and monotony that comes with having your family and children nearby.

While the term undoubtedly has challenging, racist roots intended to differentiate or create a special status for white Westerners abroad as opposed to other groups, I also don't think of it as being a particularly flattering image.

Friday, March 13, 2015

Landed safe and sound

I am finally awake enough to update and let everyone know that I made it safely to Erbil. I flew in and landed last night around 4am, and after baggage claim, passport control, and a short bus ride that takes you between two different buildings in the airport, I was picked up by our driver and dropped off at home. I fell asleep pretty immediately, and slept until around noon, had coffee, took a shower (it's amazing how those little things can make a world of difference in making you feel human again) and met my boss for lunch, an overview of the upcoming week, and a quick tour of our part of Erbil. The neighborhood we live in is the Christian and minority area, so I was shown such hot spots as the local liquor store, as well as the fruit and vegetable stand, bread window, convenience store, ATM, etc. 

Tomorrow we are going to go out as a group to explore the city a bit more, see the citadel of Erbil, which apparently is the oldest continuously inhabited place on earth and a UNESCO Heritage Site. I'll take some pictures then-- I totally spaced on it today. 

Anyway, haven't done much yet so I have very little to report. Just wanted everyone to know I made it safely!

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Relaunch

Yikes! I abandoned this blog pretty abruptly last time, huh? "All's well, don't worry!"... Radio Silence for years. Whoops.

Well, for anyone still wondering (and if in fact you are, we probably don't know each other), I made it back from Palestine just fine. And as it turns out, I head to Iraq in just under a week. I just managed to re-read this entire blog, including my apparently habitual lack of planning, packing, and preparing... which is where I stand now. I leave next week, Wednesday, and by the looks of my room, I'm not going anywhere fast. So I'll have to get to work on that this weekend. 

For those I haven't connected with yet about it, I'm headed to Iraq to work for a big civil society building project--- in non-NGO parlance, I'm working on a project that helps community organizations be more effective. I'll be there for 7 months (headed back home Oct. 16), and I'll be doing Grant Reporting and Communications-- finally putting that Journalism degree to use. 

I thought about starting up a new blog, but I sort of like the idea of maintaining continuity. Pictures may be a bit more scarce this time around, as travel will be pretty restricted for obvious security reasons, but wherever possible, I'll snap photos and post them. 

I'll fly into Erbil, the administrative capital of the semi-autonomous Kurdish region of Northern Iraq, where I'll be for the first 4-6 weeks. From there, I'll head to Baghdad, and spend some time in the office there. 

Anyway... back to work. Just wanted to hit the official "relaunch" button on this blog so I could send it out to every.